A challenge for society

Polina SIDELOVA

“To be modern is not a fashion, it is a state. It is necessary to understand the history, and he who understands the history knows how to find continuity between that which was, that which is, and that which will be”. 

Le Corbusier

Modern fashion is democratic; a variety of trends allows you to create fashionable images in any style. Young people, filled with a rebellious spirit, as opposed to the glamorous SWAG and the ingenious Smart Casual, can choose for themselves not less bright but more daring underground.

The story of the emergence of underground clothing is rooted in the development of rock music. Family Style is considered to be in Seattle, and trendsetter of this style is Kurt Cobain. It was the anarchist rockers who declared war on civilian estates, and it was the beginning of the emergence of youth subculture with an entirely new look at life. The trendy direction was formed under the music of Nirvana, whose leader was Kurt Cobain. It allowed young people to look in a new way checkered shirts from the flannel, torn and cluttered jeans, oversize sweatshirts, shapeless vest, any worn clothes, and too old sneakers. Cobain was different in his attitude to his appearance. The clothes were bought by a musician in second hand and wore it literally to holes; he was absolutely not interested in the opinions of others.

“We are so trendy we can’t even escape ourselves”, Kurt Cobain.

The popularity of Nirvana contributed to the fact that young people began to copy their idols overwhelmingly, and this could not have remained unnoticed in the fashion world. Most of us are probably too young to have fully experienced the grunge era, but thanks to the recent resurgence of ’90s fashion trends, we can still channel a bit of the grunge look today.

In the spring of 1993, young, but very promising designer Mark Jacobs introduced a collection of youthful clothes in the grunge style to the audience. Colleagues and critics did not appreciate the enthusiasm of the fashion designer and he was fired from the Fashion House with a scandal. 

However, almost a quarter of a century, „boys from the doorway“ and „orphans“ appear on the podiums, and tattered jeans became a cult thing in the wardrobe of several generations.

The main feature of underground fashion is the ignorance of any stylistic limitations and the rejection of generally accepted standards, artistic traditions, public outrage, and rebellion. The underground style in clothes – a challenge to society, a rejection of the „right“ fashion look. Underground things look like a person thinks exclusively about comfort and completely indifferent to his appearance. But „absolute indifference“, of course, is achieved thanks to painstaking design work.

Underground clothing is a bold challenge to social norms, an aggressive denial of the cult of money, luxury, gloss – all of the signs of the bourgeoisie, although „torn jeans“ – a grunge symbol – can cost a whole state.

Underground is a step to meet freedom and a great opportunity for self-expression, a good helper to create a stylish image, for instance, a print on clothing.

If you believe the definition, fashion is a popular trend, especially with respect to the style of clothing or ornament. It is worth noting that the style here is not used in its original meaning. Meanwhile, the word „style“ means distinctive features in the external appearance, certain principles by which the design is formed. As you can see, the concepts are not quite close.

Articles that in order to look stylish, you need to monitor trends – just a way to raise sales, and if you look at fashion and style as synonyms, you can become a victim of consumerism. Generally, eclecticism is the main trend in teenage fashion.

By itself, the adolescent period is immediately associated with transitional age, crisis, riot, and experiments. And the choice of clothes for a teenager is nothing more than an instrument of this very riot, an expression of protest. Clothes of this age – creative search, spontaneity, recklessness, and originality(that’s why nowadays underground fashion becomes more and more popular and the audience enjoy watching on different social media platforms something new, something creative which is connected to fashion). 

I think, fashion should be approached sensibly, and although it is impossible to avoid its influence, one should not rush to extremes. The only one who can afford it is youth. But everyone can and should choose the golden mean, emphasize own individuality. 

Fashion sets only directions and shows certain images and themes that are relevant to this season, and each person decides how to interpret these images and what to choose. It is important here rather not what kind of things and what designers to buy in the new season, but how to wear these things.

Fashion is something that each of us can appreciate, but should not imitate or match, because fashion is created in order to admire it from afar. Style, on the contrary, appears deep inside.